Lucy Worsley on the burning issue of candles at Versailles

Image © Lucy Worsley

Filming a new series The Keys to the Castle, Lucy has written a fascinating Substack:

A brief history of candles by Lucy Worsley

Seville: An Unpremeditated Pleasure

Hotel Boutique Elvira Plaza rooftop, Seville. Photo: AP

We flew to Seville from the UK after Air India postponed our flight from Heathrow to Sydney in June. We decided to change plans, spend another few days in Europe and fly out from Madrid instead. Very last-minute, but why not? And what a treat it was. 

We chose to stay in the Santa Cruz district the old quarter near the cathedral, so we were prepared for many tourists. But the weather was warming up at the end of June, so tourists were less obvious and our little square with its orange trees was mostly deserted. We were a two-minute walk from the Giralda, the bell tower of Seville's massive cathedral, and the Real Alcazar, the oldest royal palace in Europe, featuring exotic architecture and gardens.

Giralda at dusk. Photo:AP

Real Alcazar gardens. Photo:AP

Real Alcazar. Photo: AP

Real Alcazar. Photo: AP

Real Alcazar. Photo: AP

Tapas Bars

We were spoilt for choice for tapas bars in the district – we didn't bother with reviews, just wandered and chose bars we liked the look of. Cafe-Bar Las Teresas, founded in 1870, was a stroll through the labyrinthine passageways from our hotel. It's a favourite for its history and dishes such as Iberican acorn- fed ham, Iberian black pudding, Galician-style octopus. The stylish Cafe Santa Cruz was just around the coner from our hotel, and Bar Estrella an eight minute walk. Ken likes Estrella Damm beer, so the latter was a given.

Las Teresas. Photo: AP

Las Teresas interior. Photo © Las Teresas

Flamenco

Looking for an intimate flamenco show rather than a grand production, we booked seats for a  performance in an atmospheric theatre space and were spellbound by the performance of a singer, guitarist, cajon box drummer and dancer. The cajon is a Peruvian box percussion instrument introduced to flamenco in the 1970s by guitarist  Paco de Lucia. ( I thought the musician was just, well, sitting on a box  until I realised he was playing it!)

El Aranol, flamenco performance space. Photo: AP

El Aranol flamenco. Photo (from video): Ken Martin

Afterwards we had simple tapas at a street bar – anchovies, Iberian ham, a glass of rose, and delicious goat cheese with honey and walnuts. 

Tapas, Seville. Photo: AP

Only day two of this year's visit to Spain and we were so happy to be there. Next stop? Aragon for Garnacha wine, and delightful surprises in Zaragoza.

Hotel Elvira Plaza

Cafe Bar Las Teresas 

El Aranol flamenco

Estrella Damm

Note: The pedestrian-only cobbled laneways were a challenging walk to the Hotel Boutique Elvira Plaza with our bags (packed voluminously for the flight to Sydney). The delightful member of staff who helped us to the taxi on the way back made it clear that we need not have struggled, we should have contacted them beforehand for help as taxis can't access the pedestrian Plaza Donna Elvira locality. 

Spring in our Bush Paradise

Boronias line the cliff edge with pultanea 'eggs and bacon' in the foreground. Photo: AP

I'm just so pleased that we were here in the bush for spring this year! It came early at our place with tiny pterostylis greenhood orchids I find very hard to identify as there are so many variations. Next, carpets of purple spreading hardenbergia, followed by masses of white libertia paniculata, which love one of the shady sides of the valley as do the little caldenia finger orchids, some pink and some white. The helmet orchids, corybas, seem to have disappeared for now.

Then come the irises, covering the top of our mountain and beginning to flower first on the north side of a slope – they love still sunny spring days! The big dendrobium rock orchids appear on rock edges, quite lovely this year but not as plentiful as last and a very short flowering time. 

Patersonia sericea, wild iris. Photo:AP

Pale pink boronia floribunda bushes light up  the cliff edge seen in the distance  – later than the striking Sydney baronia we see on the cliffs on the drive to Sydney, 'ours' are small and bushy and very fragrant. In the foreground is a pultanea, 'eggs and bacon'. The whole upper parts of the property are densely populated this year along with a pure yellow variety I haven't named yet. (!!)

We're excited to see orchids including diuris donkey orchids (love the ears) and tiger or hornet orchids, diuris sulphurea. 

Diuris, donkey orchid. Photo: AP

A year or so ago I noticed a spreading network of leaves on a large boulder on our road in, so this year I loved finding out that it is a tongue orchid, named for its leaf shape. It is tiny, but has masses of flowers.

Dockrillia lunguiformis, tongue orchid.

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To be continued!

Visit England's West Midlands

Updating my App, new version out soon! 

Broadway Tower, Broadway, Worcestershire. ©AP

I love the West Midlands in the heart of England, especially patchwork fields, walking trails, history, castles, villages, gardens, all things Shakespeare and the glorious countryside. My heart skips a beat whenever I see the sinuous outline of the Malvern Hills (the Sleeping Dragon) and to walk on them is magical. 

But in researching and developing my travel App, England's West Midlands, I've also channelled some family roots that are firmly planted in the heart of the industrial Midlands.

These include Quarry Bank, Brierley Hill and Dudley in the industrial Black Country where you'll find the fascinating Black Country Living Museum – think Peaky Blinders and much more. Also Coventry with its atmospheric old-meets-new cathedral.

Morgan Roadster, Malvern, Worcestershire. ©AP

Food? Yes, I'm a fan of the countryside's fresh produce, farm shops, some great pubs, lively cafes plus the outstanding, multicultural cuisine of Birmingham. Artisan distilleries, craft breweries and vineyards are outstanding in this region. 

I love Morgan cars, too, made in Malvern. Fabulous!

Ludlow is a foodie capital in Shropshire with specialty shops, cafes, pubs, while the entire Welsh border country is dreamy and atmospheric – perfect for country drives and exploring. 

My App dives into industrial heritage, leads you to vintage transport collections so symbolic of the Midlands, as well as many specialist museums, energised with interactive displays and dynamic exhibitions. Some such as Evesham's Almonry (below) are significant buildings and treasure troves in themselves, recording fascinating local history including the destruction of Evesham's great abbey.

In England my base is close to the North Cotswold village of Broadway and just a stone's throw from Stratford-upon-Avon. I love the black and white architecture and thatched cottages of the Midlands as well as the honey-coloured stone houses of the Cotswolds. 

The Almonry, Evesham.©AP

I'm also a short drive from Coventry, now emphasising its heritage with landmarks including the Telegraph newspaper building repurposed as hotels and accommodation, as well as heritage walks, the Herbert Art Gallery & Museum and the Coventry Music Museum. Coventry Cathedral has a very special place in my heart – my father was born in Coventry and loved the old cathedral and Holy Trinity Church next door, where he went to Sunday School. Take a guided tour to discover Coventry's secrets.

Meanwhile, Birmingham is regenerating its city centre with impressive buildings such as The Cube, home to Hotel Indigo Birmingham and Marco Pierre White's Steakhouse, Bar & Grill (think modern comfort, food and champagne). Dishoom Birmingham delivers Irani/Bombay fusion, all welcome. Bakeries and cafes reflect the mix of influences, there's fine dining and vegans and vegetarians will love Birmingham, too. 

The Cube, home of Hotel Indigo Birmingham.©IHG Hotels

The Library of Birmingham, affectionately called the 'Wedding Cake' is one of centre's signature buildings, while the Bullring & Grand Central shopping centres combine to create the largest city centre shopping complex in the UK. The historic Jewellery Quarter is home of 100 or so diamond dealers and jewellers, also cafes, bars and restaurants – multicultural Birmingham really loves its food! The best way to explore is on a walking tour such as the Birmingham guided city centre walk.

The Library of Birmingham.©Visit Birmingham

The Garrick pub, Stratford-upon-Avon.©AP

I might be the only one to think this, but I'm quite taken with the echoes I see in the Library of Birmingham's decorative exterior patterns and those of The Garrick pub in Stratford-upon-Avon, one of the oldest in town. Shakespeare himself may well have imbibed at the Garrick as it is very close to re-vamped New Place where he lived in his later years until he died. Of course Stratford-upon-Avon is a key Midlands' attraction, with much ado about Shakespeare and the beautiful houses associated with him and his family, including Anne Hathaway's Cottage and Shakespeare's Birthplace. Take a walking tour to disvover the highlights.

Anne Hathaway's Cottage, Shottery, Stratford-upon-Avon.©AP

Major Rivers in the Midlands include the Trent, Tame, Avon, Severn and Wye (forming the English/ Welsh border for much of its length) and the area is linked by a network of canals built to carry freight at the height of the Industrial Revolution. Canal boat holidays are a rewarding way to travel through the countryside and right into the heart of towns and cities including Birmingham, Stourport-on-Severn, Stoke-on-Trent, Stratford-upon-Avon, Upton-upon-Severn. 

The Hatton Flight of locks, Warwickshire.©AP

Canal boat on the River Avon.©AP

And those castles, gardens, villages and stunning views? I've a real feeling that many people are craving a comforting sense of place and history right now and the West Midlands delivers. Visiting English country gardens in their many seasons is one of life's pleasures ...

Bourton House Garden. ©AP

... as is standing on vantage points such as the Malvern, Shropshire and Cotswold Hills to admire the patchwork fields and views across middle England. Broadway Tower is just one of my favourites.

Please download my Travel App to enjoy much more of the West Midlands, plan a trip, see the sights.

Link: 

England's West Midlands

Published by TouchScreen Travels.

My thanks to all who have helped me including the West Midlands Growth Company, Visit Britain, local businesses and attractions, PR and marketing companies, friends, family and associates and, especially, TouchScreen Travels.

Sri Lanka: Wellbeing at Glenross Living; Surfing, Snorkelling, Diving, Fishing from Teardrop Hotels' Kalkudah Beach House

Glenross Living, Neboda, Kalutara, Sri Lanka. Photo by Glenross Living©

I love a wellness retreat, especially those in beautiful settings where the energy is palpable. Rainforest hits the spot as I found at one signature retreat high above a river valley. I've long wanted to return there but the temptation of the new is always irresistible and when I read about holistic wellness in the Sri Lankan rainforests, I was keen to know more.

Now I must say that I hope it was actually the rainforest, yoga and more that appealed and not the 'chocolate box on arrival' mentioned, although that triggered the following memory: 

We had travelled to Switzerland and were most generously hosted. One particular day involved a wonderful fondue lunch in Gruyere (with potatoes to dip in the cheese), hot on the heels of which was a visit to a chocolate factory, then a multi-course gourmet dinner by a leading chef on the banks of Lake Geneva at Montreux! The chocolate factory of course meant multiple samples and purchases of sweet treats as gifts for those at home.

On the return journey to Australia we stopped off to experience a luxurious wellness/spa retreat to photograph it and gather information for luxury travel/wellness stories. The diet rules were very strict and the Swiss chocolate gifts in our bags became very tempting and, yes, we succumbed and polished off the lot in one sitting.

SO, the prospect of a chocolate box on arrival at Glenross Living in Neboda, Kalutara, Sri Lanka perhaps cancels the tiny guilt-trip I guess I must have been on for some years.  Chocolate and wellness, yay! 

Sri Lanka is an emerging wellness destination and Glenross Living is just 43 kilometres from Colombo,  surrounded by green and misty valleys on the edge of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Sinharaja Rainforest. 

The emphasis is on wellness and experiencing the setting, exploring scenic hiking trails for birdwatching excursions, witnessing the age-old traditions of rubber tapping and cinnamon peeling, and visiting the cultural gems of Kalutara Temple and Richmond Castle. Unwind in spacious tranquillity, lounge by the pool, picnic under the cooling shade of trees scattered across the 90-acre land – a personal butler will take care of all your needs.

Photo by Glenross Living.©

Information/Bookings  www.glenrossliving.com 

Teardrop Hotels Unveils Kalkudah Beach House, Sri Lanka

Kalkudah Beach House, the newest addition to Teardrop Hotels’ portfolio in Sri Lanka, will be open for stays from 1 June 2025.

A secluded retreat on Sri Lanka’s untouched east coast and a scenic 6-hour drive from Colombo, 35 kilometres north of Batticaloa and an hour’s drive from Polonnaruwa, Kalkudah Beach House is nestled within a 25-acre coconut estate, with direct access to Kalkudah Bay, a seemingly endless stretch of soft, golden sand and calm waters.

Kalkudah Beach House, Sri Lanka. Photo by Teardrop Hotels©

The Main House was originally acquired as a family holiday home in the 1970s and known as Eastern Breeze Estate. During Sri Lanka’s 26-year civil war, the estate was abandoned and intermittently occupied by both the Sri Lankan military and Tamil Tigers.

The current owners purchased the property in 2004, shortly after the devastating tsunami swept through the region. Remarkably, the house’s Dutch-inspired arched windows and doors of the Main House withstood the disaster, though the building had fallen into disrepair and required extensive refurbishment.

Over the past 20 years, a slow and deliberate evolution has shaped Kalkudah Beach House into what it is today. Additions include a 2-bedroom Palm Villa, 22-metre swimming pool and water purification system that integrates the gardens and estate and fills the pool.

The Main House blends timeless charm with modern comfort featuring three beautifully designed rooms. Guests can book rooms individually, reserve an exclusive 2-bedroom or 3-bedroom villa, or opt for a full buyout of all five rooms for the ultimate private experience.

Ocean-to-table dining takes centre stage, with much of the seafood coming directly from the fishermen who bring in their daily catch right in front of the hotel. Succulent sea crab and grilled reef fish are prepared with locally sourced ingredients and perfectly paired with fresh salads and aromatic Sri Lankan curries.

Kalkudah Beach House is the perfect base for discovering the highlights of Sri Lanka’s east coast and cultural triangle.  From vibrant coral reefs to ancient cities and historic landmarks, there is plenty to discover in the surrounding area. There are waves to be caught surfing at Arugam Bay, snorkelling adventures in nearby bays and coral-rich coves teeming with marine life, diving and deep sea fishing trips in Pasikuda, whale and dolphin watching tours in Trincomalee, and relaxing sunset cruises over Kalkudah Bay. 

Explore the historic Dutch Fort in Batticaloa, climb magnificent Sigiriya Rock Fortress and discover UNESCO’s Polonnaruwa ancient city, as well as vibrant town markets and local life in Valaichchenai.  Spot elephants, leopards, sloth bears and other endemic wildlife at Minneriya or Kumana National Parks.

The best time to visit Kalkudah is normally between April and October, when clear skies, low humidity, and calm, turquoise waters create perfect conditions for swimming, snorkelling and other water activities. This period sees minimal rainfall, mirror-still seas, and plenty of sunshine. The rainy season, which traditionally begins in early November and lasts until February, brings periodic rains and changing sea conditions, making swimming best approached with caution.

Information/Bookings/Early Bird Offers 

https://www.teardrop-hotels.com/kalkudah-beach-house/

 

Touring England: Let's Play

Retro game from the 1930s, by House of Marbles. 

Now discontinued, what a shame. I'll look for second hand/used.